Supramonte di Baunei, on the roof of the world
The most demanding hikers and lovers of the enchanting sea think so, it lifts the spirit and rekindles the senses, all in Ogliastra
Look around you, you can already sense it as you climb the Golgo di Baunei plateau, from which the Supramonte stretches out. The landscape depicts primordial nature, where the archaic soul of Sardinia lingers: there is the abyss of su Sterru, an extremely deep and mysterious funnel-shaped karstic well next to the circle of nuragic stones that surround the piscinas, the natural basins that collected water for ancient rituals. There are domus de Janas hidden among the greenery and nuraghi in the hills overlooking Golgo and the village. These places, which have escaped the hand of man, stir the soul and fascinate in an atmosphere of enchantment and wonder. But that's just a prelude to what awaits you as you walk into the codula di Sisine, the underground river bed that rises to the mouth of the beautiful beach. The route is easy, with a gentle gradient, and leads to the sea, taking in all the beauty encountered along the way: limestone cliffs jutting skywards, canyons, caves, ravines and ridges covered with juniper trees and Mediterranean maquis, ancient sheepfolds, wild animals and a few shepherds.
From Golgo, without a guide as for Cala Sisine, take a path that leads down to the sea from an altitude of 500 metres. The Supramonte here changes constantly, rock arches, gorges, ancient trees and just before the beach, the Aguglia, the limestone monolith that dominates Cala Goloritzè. As the climbers say, the view of the cove and the Gulf of Orosei from its summit is unparalleled. And to think that there was no beach here until the 1960s, when the mountain collapsed onto the coast creating a spectacular expanse of small white pebbles, opening up freshwater springs on the rocks and giving the sea new colours on the shore. Swimming out to sea and admiring the cove from afar, it is a breathtaking masterpiece.
The demanding route to the splendid Cala Mariolu, which easily rivals the most beautiful in the world, should be tackled with a guide; a swim in its waters is enough to repay the effort that went into the ascent to Golgo. The walk from Teletottes along the Codula di Luna is longer but easier, and the destination is not just any beach, you will arrive at the mythical Cala Luna.
Centuries-old human traces marked on the ground open pathways to the sea. Once used as coal haulage routes, today they are the most popular trails for experienced hikers. They climb through gorges, past ravines, along mule tracks overhanging the sea, up old wooden juniper ladders leaning against the walls, using rope routes. The descent to Cala Biriola is for the bravest. Those who don't want to miss this wonder and the nearby pools of Venere can get there by boat from Santa Maria Navarrese.
But the Supramonte of Baunei has much more in store: the Selvaggio Blu (Wild Blue), one of the most exciting treks in Europe, and certainly the longest, since it can last up to seven days. You can choose different sections of the entire route to do with a local guide, on your own or ask for technical assistance for the more challenging parts. Along the route there are no indoor accommodation places, but you can book refreshments, luggage transport between stages and waste collection with specific rules.
Before setting off on your treks, read the municipal ordinances regulating excursions. In some cases, for safety reasons, you will have to notify your presence in the meanders of the Supramonte di Baunei.
